Author
Elena Russo
Our correspondent on the ground in Puglia. Elena writes the destination guides and the “where to stay” — the trattorias locals actually go to, the towns worth the slow road, the season worth waiting for.
Stories by Elena Russo

Travel
Andalusia for People Who Hate Tourist Traps
the south that locals keep
Andalusia can be a parade of flamenco shows for coach groups — or the most soulful corner of Spain. Here is how to find the second one.
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Travel
A Slow Week on the Amalfi Coast (Without the Crowds)
the Amalfi the buses miss
The Amalfi Coast can feel like a traffic jam with a view — or like the most beautiful week of your life. The difference is when you go, where you base, and how little you try to do.
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Travel
The Quietest Greek Islands (and When to Have Them to Yourself)
the Greece between the famous names
Greece has around 200 inhabited islands and you have heard of perhaps ten. Here are the quiet ones — and the weeks when you can have them almost to yourself.
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Travel
7 Coastal Italian Villages Most Travelers Never Find
the coast beyond the postcards
Seven small Italian coastal towns that stayed honest — where the harbour still works, lunch is unhurried, and you are a guest rather than a number.
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30 Mediterranean Habits
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